July 26th: Ollantaytambo and Our First Day on the Trail.

We packed up for the hike and first stopped at archeological site of Ollantaytambo.

This was our introduction to the engineering minds of the Incas. The walls are all built by stone and the further you climb the more amazing the craftsmanship is. In the pic above you can easily imagine how they used rocks to form create the walls closer to you. Well, wait until you start to go up.

As we climbed higher the rock construction would change.  Look at the pics below.  It starts out at the “Wow – how did they get the rocks up here and how did they get the rocks to be seamlessly fit tougher – amazing”

Then you get to the “how the hell” section.

And, then the “that’s impossible it must have been aliens” section.

We made a quick stop at a local store on the way to the trailhead and bought my poles and a sun hat- the last two items I needed to start.

We met up with our porters who were packing up for the trip. There would be 32 of them to support the 17 of us. Chino explained to us that the word porter is not the proper word to use since these people are Quetchwan. The way we were asked to refer to them are our Wawqi – or brother of man. So, from now on you will see me use the word Wawqi

We went through 2 check points where we had to show our passports to make sure they match the names on the permits we had to have to climb. This is a controlled park and only 500 a day are allowed on the trail. Across the Urubamba River and up we started.

Our first surprise from Chino was when we came to the top of a pass. All we could see was a big cliff and a high drop off. He made us turn around lock arms and walk backwards. He had Omar and Edu in back of us for reassurance we would not go over. Yea…..He had us stop, turn around and this is what we saw. It was their way of saying welcome to the Machu Picchu Camino!

After conquering my first height challenge i was feeling pretty good.

When we got to our first camp, Tarayoc the waiki’s were all lined up to clap and high-five us. Needless to say, they were always there ahead of us. Camp would be set up including the food tent, our tents and the bathrooms before we go there.

Inside our tents for two were two thermarest mattresses, our green duffel bags and sleeping bags. The waiki’s would bring a small bowl of hot water and soap to our tents to clean up.

Since this was our first night we had an introductory ceremony where the waiki’s introduced themselves to us and us to them. We presented them with a bag of cocoa leaves, which is a traditional exchange, to thank them for the work ahead.

There was tea at 6pm and an amazing dinner at 7pm of trout and vegetables. It is still a mystery how they bring everything up on their backs for 4 days and serve 3 meals a day for 17 people plus 32 Wawqi’s.  The most amazing group of men.

JOI Goes to Peru

Monday, July 23rd, 2018

I went on another journey of inspiration. I traveled to Peru for two weeks. This trip is to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the first JOI climbers to Kilimanjaro. The 08’ers were kind enough to let an 09’er tag along for the trek. The first week included a 4 day, 43 km hike on the Inca Camino through the Andes to Machu Picchu. The second week will be a bit more of a relaxing tour of Cusco, Puno, Lake Titicaca and Lima. Though on a Rick French (Pack, Paddle and Ski) trip there is always a bit of adventure in everything we do. I am writing this after completing the first week and what a week it was. It was one of the most physically and emotionally challenges I have had and filled with some of the most loving, beautiful and spiritual moments too. It is hard to explain the combination of hardship and joy at the same time – but you know me, I will give it try. Let’s start at the very beginning…

The plane trip that would not end —

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The pic from the air is to help tell two stories. The first one is that the trip here did not start out nor end as expected. So, I will tell you the second one first.  This was the first time we saw a glimpse of the Andes.  I was not expecting them to be so grand and of course did not consider that I would be trekking through them in a few days.  They are spectacular from the air and from the ground.

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The Andes is the longest mountain range in the world and the only ones taller are the Himalaya Mountains.  I have never experience such majesty and beauty.

The part of the flight story is that our 7am flight was cancelled out of Rochester.  They shipped us up to Toronto for a 6 hour layover.  When boarding the flight from Toronto to Lima they would not let us the flight because American Airlines never issued us a ticket.  Once we got that figured out we got on the flight and sat for 3 hours.  Finally taking off we got to Lima at 530am instead of 1030pm the night before – just in time to meet the rest of the group for our flight to Cusco. Oh, wait it gets better.  We land in Cusco and no luggage.  I did not get it until a week later.  Yes, with all my gear, clothes, boots, you name it.  Ended up borrowing a little bit from the group and buying at local markets to get me through the trek. So the outfits you see me wearing on the trek are not of my choosing.   It was awful but got through it.  So enough of that.

Tuesday, July 24th, 2018

Chino

We arrived in Cusco and met by our guide Chino – real name is RRRRRRRRRRubin.

Chino would be our main guide for the first week.  He became everything to us, our tour guide, our trek leader, our historian, our supporter, our cheerleader, our problem solver, our friend and family.  We were also joined by Omar and Edu other wonderful and amazing guides that I will introduce to you later.

Pisac Citadel

First stop was Pisac Citadel – our first Inca site.  We quickly learned that there are 1000’s of Inca sites across the country with only a small percentage discovered and accessible.

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Pisac, a word of Quechua origins, means “partridge”. Inca tradition dictated building cities in the shape of birds and animals, and as such, Pisac is partridge shaped. The Inca ruins included a military citadel, religious temples, and individual dwellings, a cemetery and overlooks the Sacred Valley, between the Salkantay Mountains.

The “ridges” on the hillside are called terraces and we would soon see them everywhere. These terraces are how they developed farm land on mountainsides. The terraces leveled the planting area, but they also had several unexpected advantages. Here is a great site to learn more about this farming technique.

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It is hard to see in this pic but this is the side of a very steep mountain next to the site.  It is a cemetery.  If  you look hard you can see holes in the side and steps leading up to them.  You can’t tell from the pic, but there are 100s of them.  When people died they were embalmed with local herbs, put into a fetal position and placed in the side of the mountain. The mountains were their father and the earth their mother. This way they would be reborn.  We will come to learn how important the spirit of nature was part of the culture and part of their souls – an apparently mine.

After a lunch of llama — yes, you read that right we went to the Villa Urubamba.  Exhausting first day but already an amazing journey.

Wednesday, July 25th, 2018

We were up early and went to the archeological site of Moray.

It was a fascinating to learn just how advanced the Incas were. Yesterday, we learned about the terraces.  This site showed the terraces in circles. The full purpose behind these concentric terraces isn’t fully known. However, it is widely believed that these ruins were once an agricultural laboratory. Each one of these terraces are a different depth, design and orientation to the sun, wind and temperature. These different micro climates at the different levels allowed them to study wild vegetation.

From there we walked to help get acclimated to the elevation and low and behold we came around the corner and there was lunch and the grey tent. For all my Kili climbing friends this will look so familiar and brought back such wonderful memories.

We even got a demonstration on how to use the grey tent since this would be our bathroom for 4 days on the trail. After lunch Chino “schooled” us about our days ahead and what to pack.

We then went to the Maras Salt Mines. This is an association of 350 families. Each of these pools are fed by an underground spring that starts to fill the bottom ones by a series of channels As they get filled rocks are placed to stop the flow and the next one is filed and so forth. It can take from 7 to 20 days to harvest the salt depending on the winds.

The Market

We stopped at a local market to see the Wegmans of Cusco.

So my luggage is not going to be here in time for my climb. We started looking for sweats, a jacket and underwear. Have you ever tried to shop with a group of people especially men for underwear and pants? You are lucky if you haven’t. I was also lucky – more then you know, and blessed.  My lady gang of Linda, Linda and Char formed a pride around me, kicked the men to the curb and found me some things to wear.

Chicha

After that experience, Chino took us to a Checharina where they make Checha of course. It is a traditional drink made of corn. They also had a flavored one of strawberries which was much tastier.

Our last meal was at a wonderful restaurant in town called El Huacatay. Then home to pack for the trip.

We were given one small green duffle that we could fill with what we wanted to have on the mountain.  The porters would carry these along with our sleeping bags. Since I did not have one I needed to rent one from the touring company. We also would carry our daypack and that was it for the next 4 days. The rest of the luggage would be waiting for us when we returned to Cusco the following Monday which for me…….we still did not  know where mine was.

 

 Xie Xie Taipei 

What is bubble tea?

I am glad you asked. It is one of those must try items in Taipei and we we’re not going to leave without tasting it.  So, Thursday before our flight we went to seek this drink out.


Bubble tea is a Taiwanese tea-based drink invented  in the 1980s- of course the 80’s.  Most bubble tea recipes contain a tea base mixed/shaken with fruit or milk, to which chewy tapioca balls and fruit jelly are often added.

The first sip was quite the surprise when those jelly-tapioca-chewy-thingys hit your mouth. It was a nice send off for us as we depart on our 20+ hour trip to Chicago.

What is next for Chris? The team has a game against Czech Republic on Friday and South Korea on Saturday and then the final games where they will compete for a medal. There is a great explanation here.

It was truly an honor to be here for the first week of the games rooting on the Hawkeyes and the whole Team USA.  Tapei could not have been a more gracious host.  And, to experience this with my wonderfully, beautiful, and amazing cousin was priceless. We both leave with a new found respect and admiration for the country, its culture and most importantly its people.

 Xie Xie Taipei

A Day of Unexpected Adventures. 

During the game on Tuesday night, a women wearing a Cubs tshirt came in to watch the game and sat in our section. Well, you can guess who jumped up to meet her (Mar is from Chicago and a high fan).  Turns out she and her husband are from a suburb of Chicago and now live in Taipei. They left their careers in the states to experience teaching abroad and now both teach at the Taipei American School.


She invited us for a tour of the school the next morning which just happened to be a few blocks from the stadium where Iowa was playing Japan.  What an amazing facility.  They have 2300 students K-12. It is an American-based education but as they describe it with a global perspective where the best of east and west is presented.  Well, you can guess who jumped up to ask questions about the opportunity to teach abroad (that would be me).

USA 5, Japan 11

We did not get the win but because we won the first two games we still advance to the medal round. The games are live here in Taipei but are not being streamed to USA for what we have been told-political reasons.


Celebrity Moms

After the game we headed up to the athletes village to meet the boys and take them out to dinner. While waiting, folks would come up and ask for their picture taken with the Baseball Moms!  They were even interviewed on local TV.


We all met up and enjoyed a wonderful dinner together hearing all about their experiences as the athletes.



It was such a great day filled with unexpected adventures making it a bit hard to think about heading home.

USA 13 Russia 3

The morning we spent navigating other venues and events. (There is a great story of our adventure that we decided not to make public for our self pride sake-but get a glass or two of wine in is and we will tell you the whole story).

The game on Tuesday was a night game starting at 630pm. We were thrilled and anticipated the coolness of the night. Did I tell you how freakin hot it is here??? Ok, to be fair it did drop to under 90.  The game was at a different stadium which we brilliantly navigated ourselves to-we are so proud how we mastered the MRT and a little help from Uber!


The Iowa alumni was out in full force to root on the boys to their victory.  When it comes to sports, it really doesn’t matter what country you are from- there is respect shown for the dedication and effort.



After each game we go and wait for the boys to get on the bus. There are 3 Moms, a cousin and an Aunt here so at least three boys get warm hugs, encouragement from family.

But we aren’t their only biggest fans. The ex-pats and locals come to meet the boys and show their support, ask for autographs and take pictures. So, so cute and a thrill for the boys.

Taipei 101

No, this is not a quick lesson on all things Taipei. Though if you would like one here is a link. The Taipei 101 is the name of the tallest building in Taipei. It was actually the tallest in world until 2010!


It used to have the fastest elevator in the world, traveling at 60.6 km/h and got us from the 5th to 89th floor in 37 seconds.

You can see the stadium where we were for opening ceremonies!

Most of the city is located in the Taipei Basin, an ancient lakebed. Chris had Monday off and the team was going to site seeing so we decided to catch up with them. We were able to have lunch with him at where else:


We decided to check out one of the famous night markets.

Shilin Night Market

This is one of the biggest and most famous of the many night markets in Taiwan. It was filled with stalls of food, clothing and more cell phone cover shops then you could count. It is where most of the locals will do their shopping with the typical malls that we know of filled with high end designer stores.

MaryEllen and I being the adventurous foodies fell in love with this snack so much that we are bringing some home for all to try. You won’t be disappointed.

Ok, kidding of course.

Did we tell you how hot it is yet?

Second longest and hottest consecutive days over 90. Plus, 100% Humidity makes it feel over 100. We sometimes go into stores just to stand in front of their fans.  We had a beautiful Ice Angel take pity on us in a store and offered us ice for our drinks.


TyphoonSeason 

Heto came in at the south end and brought a much needed breeze to us in the north. Chris has had two night games where it dipped to a low low of 83…….and of course with the humidity.  It is a sweating palooza!

Mastering the MRT and the First Big Win

Sunday we decided to master the mass transit system to take in some culture on our own. BUT,  first a stop at our favorite International Buffet to see what the serve for lunch. Oh, my, my, my…..I think you get the essence.


Ok-back to mastering the MRT.


It is probably the cleanest, easiest system we both have tackled outside the US-and quite frankly inside as well!  It reminded us more like an airport shuttle system, but complete with lovely music and free WIFI! (And no urine smell, garbage or people begging for money)


We were also “schooled” on how to properly queue up-I am sure this would work in the NYC subways.

 

 

Only when the cold season comes, then we know the pine tree and the cypress are the last to lose there leaves.

Guess who says that?


Confucius Temple
This temple was the largest and most ancient of China’s Confucius temples. It is located at the original site of Confucius residence, it has grown over the course for some 2,000 years and serves as a blueprint for Confucius temples in every province of China.

Play Ball!

The first game was played against Hola! Mexico at  the Taipei Tianmu Baseball Stadium. 


Chr​is led off the game as the first at bat, with

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a local alumni crowd cheering him on.


At the end it was a W!!!!!!!

Opening Ceremonies- Olympic Style!

Wow, what an amazing event. The games are the largest sporting event ever hosted in Taiwan and they certainly kicked it off in Olympic style. The sold out Taipei Stadium is a 23,000 seat venue and was walking distance from our hotel.

After navigating through the crowds to find will call we found our seats and we’re thrilled to find a present at our seats.


Inside was a bottle of water, cookie, flags, postcards and a program. The atmosphere was truly electric and we were surrounded by parents and fans from all over the world. Though, as a westerner we stand out and we find ourselves looking for others or anyone that we can communicate with. On the street we saw a couple go by and MaryEllen yells out “Hey, English speaking people! Can you help us with directions?”

The flag was raised, anthems song accompanied by the Taipei orchestra.  The venue erupted with the first march of the athletes

Just before Canada was to be announced we received a txt from Chris saying that there is a riot outside and they are not going to let the rest of the athletes march. We looked up and all we saw were flags coming in.

There was a protest going outside and the decision was made not to put the athletes in any danger. We were so sad and upset but grateful for the care they had for our boys and girls. Less then 15 minutes later we got another txt saying they are going to let them march.

And to see a birds eye view from the athletes perspective they captured the moment. Guess who was front and center.   Take a look at this video:

http://www.snappytv.com/tc/5545822/3606927

Our Chris is the one yelling “Whoo”!

“Sometimes the best things are worth waiting for,” FISU president Oleg Matytsin said in his official speech. “No one can stop our students.”

The show told the story of how the island of Taipei was formed through its ancient history and up to modern day-all through song and dance.  One of the highlights was when a Taiwanese professional baseball player Chen Chin-feng (陳金鋒) lit the Universiade flame.  The games have officially begun.  Go USA!

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Taipei in 5 hours- Go!

On Friday, the USA delegation put together a tour of Taipei which was a whirl-wind highlight tour of the city but gave us a great sense of the city, culture and history.
Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hal

This memorial hall was originally established to commemorate Chiang Kai-Shek and host promotiona activities.  Going through the hall we wished we paid more attention to world history! He truly impacted what this region is today!


In addition to the CKS Memorial Hall, the National Opera House, and the National Concert Hall were built on the same site. We were impressed to hear that when a major Broadway musical or opera is playing inside the venue, they put screens outside so that the citizens who cannot afford a ticket could experience it.

National Palace Museum

The National Palace Museum has a permanent collection of nearly 700,000 pieces of ancient Chinese imperial artifacts and artworks, making it one of the largest of its type in the world. The collection encompasses 8,000 years of history of Chinese art from the Neolithic age to the modern. the collection were moved to Taiwan to prevent their desecration during and after the Chinese Civil War.

History of Buddhism engraved on back

It was amazing to see the artwork and sculptures of these artifacts dating 4000 BC – yes, 4000 BC. Our tour guide said that he had a job that was to take someone back and forth every day to the museum for a month so he could go through the museum in its entirity. So, you can see we only saw the highlights given the 2 hours we were there – but it was enough time to truly be inspired by the depth of this countries spiritualism, artistry,  knowledge, and craftsmanship.

Maokong Gondola

We took a gondola to visit the Zhinan Temple high in the mountains. It was a temple centred around the idea of “three religions and five houses for life guidance” to create five key themes on the grounds.

It conveys the unique blend of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism found in local culture through the five houses of parents, children, siblings, spouses and fortune and virtue.  

The culture is very tolerant of various religions often sharing places of worship.  Our guide explained that the top theee religions are Toaism, Buddhism, and Christianity.

In the evening we went to the opening ceremonies, but just had to dedicate a separate entry to it.